“Built in accordance with traditional Thai style architecture with multi-tiered roofs of coloured tiles with finials, roof ridges, and lotus-captal pillars this building of brick and white washed plaster has exterior walls that are decorated with gilt and coloured glass mosaics fashioned into geometric patterns.” (Grand Palace website)
The Grand Palace is more than a building, more than a structure, more than an enclosure. It’s a sprawling complex that deserves the better part of a day’s sightseeing if you’re planning a visit. The architectural style, color pallet, and sparkling jewel-toned adornments are just what I think of when I imagine visiting Thailand — more so than the skyscrapers street vendors of downtown Bangkok.
Why visit? To get a glimpse of the history of the country. To respect the religious beliefs of the people. To give your senses an opportunity to come alive, with the musky smell of incense, the chime of bells, heat that is Thailand in April, and endless reflections in golden encircled mirrors. This experience is immersive – it was immersive before ‘immersive experiences’ were the trendy, manufactured stuff of AAA guide books.
“In 1782 the new King decided to move the capital city to the left bank of the Chao Phraya River for strategic purposes and used the canals to the west as defenses for the new city. A palace was constructed whose grounds currently covers an area of 218,000 square metres that are enclosed by crenallated walls measuring 19,000 metres. Similar to palaces in the former capitals of Sukhothai and Ayudhaya this palace is also laid out with Halls of Residence and Throne Halls as well as administrative buildings and a temple that serves as the Chapel Royal.” (Royal Palace website)
I’ve been lucky enough to visit Thailand twice within decade. The first time was on vacation with a photographer friend who wouldn’t mind my seeking out just the right vantage point or lighting scenario for my photo. This time my visit was on work travel. Because of the time difference (11 – 12 hours) I had a day or so on either end, to acclimate to Bangkok time before facilitating a CliftonStrengths workshop for a group of colleagues and again when I returned home, to recover from the fact that I spent my ‘off’ days running all over the city, to temples, markets, museums, and Red Cross facilities.
Have no doubt – I also had 3 or so massages while in the country, to prep myself for more adventuring.
I can’t pretend to be an expert when it comes to the many stories being told through paintings, statues, and architecture at the Grand Palace. But I’m certain it’s action-packed, full of adventure, and very much otherworldly. Creatures are half-human and half-fish, half-elephant, half-fantasy. There’s struggle. There’s determination. There’s victory. There are feats of great strength and acts of great love. Religious conviction is tested and devotion is proven.
An intricate mural is painted on the wall that surrounds the golden temples. There is evidence of violence, invasion, and struggle. There is evidence of loving protection, defense, and victory over evil. A visitor could get lost in a single panel of the painting. One might decide to order a print of a small section of the mural as a wedding gift, to hang in their home and contemplate from time to time. Curiosity is definitely awakened.
I was drawn to a certain half-human, half-elephant figure in the paintings, wondering if he was an attacker or a protector. His positioning and stance spoke of commitment to defense. He appeared again and again, towering statues standing guard outside of temple doors, at the ready. Days later I ran into him at the Bangkok airport, standing as tall as the terminal ceiling.
Imposing tusks and pointed ears speak of a fierceness that could be awakened from his massive, elephant-inspired side. I have no doubt that he knows how to use the distinctly-human sword that he holds in his hands. The figure is stoic and intimidating, but the protective nature he demonstrates is strangely comforting.
Outdoors
Purchasing your ticket at the Grand Palace ticket office is an experience in itself, when there are long lines. A great deal of people watching is available, with tourists speaking a half dozen languages, all around you. There are many alternate purchasing methods. We’re so accustomed to automated, touchless, and AI-supported transactions these days that the thought of waiting in line and interacting with another human who might be able to highlight some “don’t miss” opportunities is viewed as an inconvenience by many. I chose the person-to-person interaction!
Special attention should be paid to the dress code at the Grand Palace, which is strictly enforced. When my Grab ride (like an Uber) dropped me off at the entrance the dress code was clearly displayed. Visitors in inappropriate attire are spotted, approached, and offered the opportunity to purchase an item of clothing to cover themselves up. I saw many men wearing loose-fitting linen pants with an elephant pattern, meant to cover up their cargo shorts.
I was immediately spotted in my signature tank top, getting out of the rideshare vehicle. Security enforcement and various vendors waved at me for my attention. This was not my first visit to Thailand or the temples, so I was aware of the restrictions. I pulled a long-sleeve coverup out of my camera bag, in the lightest material I owned. It was synthetic, nonetheless, so I settled into it and embraced the sweat running down my back. It was just going to be hot!
A popsicle and an ice-cold bottled water were a welcome treat when I exited the grounds.
There is loads of practical information about planning your visit to the Grand Palace on their website, but the bit of advice below made me chuckle knowingly. Negotiating alternate modes of transportation can be a bit of a challenge. Sometimes you learn this the hard way. Sometimes, because of the monetary exchange rate in the country you’re visiting, it’s not worth negotiating when the ride from the airport to your hotel is $5 USD instead of the anticipated $4 USD. You just want to get to your hotel safely and don’t mind paying in cash either.
I’ve learned first hand that if you travel by train in Edinburgh, pedicab in London, or tuk tuk in Bangkok, buyer beware! Make sure you know what you’re paying for before the trip begins.
Some areas of the Grand Palace complex, on the outskirts, stand in contrast to the wash of gold in the main temple areas. On the way to the exits of the complex there are fountains, large stretches of green grass, and intricately adorned white buildings with just a touch of gold trim. Dark green glass and large statues of elephant guardians give me a sense of stability and calm, in comparison to the high-frequency energy of the areas of the palace I’ve just exited. I can breathe a little easier. I notice the blue skies and puffy white clouds. It’s still stiflingly hot, but there are fewer tourists crowded together. The feeling of this place is less claustrophobic. It’s beautiful!
My next adventures, when I return to Thailand:
- Arts of the Kingdom: “The Arts of the Kingdom Museum is therefore the only museum that displays work created by the hands of the farming community. The artisans of the Queen Sirikit Institute create art works without a model or a mold. They start from zero, with no background in the arts. Some cannot even read and write. But through the generosity of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother, these beautiful works of art have therefore been preserved as national treasures, an artistic heritage that is a source of pride for future generations of Thai people.” (https://www.royalgrandpalace.th/en/attraction/arts-of-kingdom)
- Khon Performance: The performance of Khon at Sala Chalermkrung is carefully carried out to ensure its authenticity in all aspects; the traditional performing details, the related rituals, the high artistic value as Thai heritage and the quality as public entertainment. Gracefully and concisely preserved, the beauty of the dance moves and body language is accompanied by live traditional music and narrators’ singing on the side. The show is also enhanced by modern stage and visual techniques with English and Chinese subtitles provided throughout. (https://www.royalgrandpalace.th/en/attraction/khon)
Join me on my next adventure,
~ Kat
Related Links:
The Grand Palace: https://www.royalgrandpalace.th/th/home
Arts of the Kingdom: https://www.royalgrandpalace.th/en/attraction/arts-of-kingdom
Kohn Performance: https://www.royalgrandpalace.th/en/attraction/khon
Accidental Wanderlust 